Sunday, 16 September 2012



All own images and video

Yifang Wan’s S/S13 collection was held in the one of Freemason’s more decedent rooms of warm sultry colours, varnished wood, painted ceilings and an ornate dividing gate which imposed on the centre of the room – establishing a feeling of Asian decadence and English character. Models paraded through the space, passing through this central extravagance, wearing simple, plain and sophisticated designs. This was an enjoyable contrast in aesthetics, but did make the outfits less imposing in such lavish surroundings. Wan’s collection seemed to inhibit a martial arts reference through its straight lines, boxy forms and kimono/ kaftan like designs. This linear look was mastered through a monochrome palette of black, navy and white in fine matte wools. One almost intrusive aspect was the resin belts, which featured on the show’s invite cards. They looked like organic sculptures from a rugged terrain as opposed to a functional belt. The point of difference throughout the pieces were only slight, in the form of different shaped necklines, some square and one with a triangular indentation that nearly exposed a hint of cleavage and another bared a plunge neckline providing quiet sexiness. My favourite was the trusty shift dress with a high neckline paired with asymmetric sleeve. Most designs were long in length with slits allowing for movement. The model’s hair were sleek straight with a middle parting and linear harsh ends. This was teamed perfectly with modern minimal make-up; dewy completions and eyes framed with black eyeliner. All this was made more feminine by being paired with chunky high wedges. Eventually the colours merged by combining white tops with black trousers. The collection seems to offer a universal, accessible and elegant addition to the summer wardrobe of 2013. I have a feeling though, the belts won't catch on.


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